Sunday, 30 June 2013

Here's the start of my trip to Zanzibar... the rest will follow next time I have internet 
Long bus journeys were a defining feature of my trip. The journey from Kampala to Dar Es Salaam was no exception,  smoke began billowing through into the coach when we were only an hour out of Kampala, so the driver pulled over to find out that the wheel was out of line, so the solution was first to jack the wheel off the ground, then later we stopped again and the wheel was just completely removed, so we did the next part of journey (to Nairobi) with 7 wheels rather than 8.

Switching buses in the middle of Nairobi, which (not surprisingly) caused a road block.

The cockrel that was hitching a ride into the centre of Dar.

Leaving Dar Es Salaam behind, thank god. Don't like that city.

The sky over the sea between Dar and Zanzibar
First view of Zanzibar

heading to town

the main form of transport on Zanzibar is by dala dala, we counted 35 people at one point on this journey 

A family in matching saris 

A dead blow fish which Calum decided to put in his mouth

photo finish in Calum's race against himself


Jake burying Calum








Saturday, 29 June 2013

Hitting the road in Uganda

There’s no way I can write about everything that happened during the five weeks we had off school between the 13 and 9 week terms. Instead, here's some pictures, I know it's a bit of a cop out, but hope you enjoy the next 2 photo blogs anyway.

Here's my first trip...
30th April-6th May. Road trip from Masaka to Kampala, a very long way around, through Queen Elizabeth National Park, the crater lakes and Fort Portal.
This is Dylan, our car that we picked up in Masaka and became very attached to over our week with him, he served us well. Bumping over dirt tracks, through biiiig puddles and over fields on our adventures across Queen Elizabeth and beyond. 
Tea pickers in Agara district, using pretty advanced technology to pick the  leaves.
This was our first view over the plains of Queen Elizabeth, this photo doesn't capture it, but it was like something out of the Africa series, it really was stunning and so unusual.

This was a place at the side of the road selling really good honey, in glass waragi (Uganadan gin) bottles. We got overly excited about the fact we could stop whenever we wanted to, up until this week we'd only ever used public transport in Uganda, which doesn't allow for much stopping.

Posing next to Dylan

This was as close to that lake as we could get to, which was infuriating because  we saw several herds of different animals, but we couldn't quite see what they were

Holly and Svandis watching the elephants, hoping there were no lions nearby...

The best animal viewing is from the roof of Dylan, our loyal companion. When we spotted the elephants, me and Jenny were straight on the roof
We brought our little charcoal stove with us, which gave us some yummy dinners on our trip.
This is a small section of a much bigger salt farm which covered the majority of this small lake, we couldn't quite work out how salt is actually farmed here, but it was a pretty spectacular sight, with white, bleached sticks standing upright, marking the edges of hundreds of glass water pools.
Driving in the park was so much fun! Especially as it was rainy season,  which meant LOTS of mud.


The iguana that walked across the road in front of us

Another view over Queen Elizabeth plains, from the Crater drive, which took us high up into the crater hills in the park.

This is one of the crater lakes

This is a tree that was blocking our track, instead of moving the tree, a new route had been made around it! After a failed first atempt to get Dylan up the very steep muddy verge I managed to conquer the obstacle! 

We were just driving out of the little car park to a hotel in the park where we treated ourselves to a really good lunch one day, when these little fellas appreared out of the hedge omn one side of the road, and very confidently trotted across infront of us, to disappear into the hedge on the other side of the road.

This was taken at about 7am. The highlight of the whole trip for me was when we woke up in the dark in order to be out on the Kasenyi plains for the sunrise. Only 15 minutes or so into Kasenyi we drove past a big herd of elephants. They stopped next to us and then turned around The sight of twenty or so elephants crossing in absolute silence infront of us in the pre-dawn light of Uganda is etched into my memory. We watched until they were completely out of sight, then sat in silence, stunned, for some time.

The biggest chapattis I've seen in my life! This little village that we stumbled up on in the middle of the park  gave us a welcome takeaway breakfast, that ended up being lunch as well.

Later on the same drive, we turned a corner, to see a pair of hippos wander onto the road. I was driving, and was torn between wanting to get as close as possible, and being rather nervous of these powerful animals, as they weaved across the road and back again, disappearing behind bushes, then reappearing only metres from the car.

Queen Elizabeth is a Kob breeding ground, we saw countless numbers of them roaming around.

On our drive up to the crater lakes from Queen Elizabeth (different from the crater lakes in Queen Elizabeth)  there was an amazing clothes market. We all picked up some great bargains. Markets in Uganda are incredible. hundreds of thousands of clothes get shipped over from Europe and sold here for next to nothing. It's great!

This is our little hut which we thought was perfect. Until we were inundated with  screaming bats and rats in the night, all night.

The crater lake next to our campsite.

This was awaterfall we walked to, we were nervous about going in to start with...

but we all ended up getting plummeted by the cascading water in the end. 

This is Fort Portal, the cleanest, most orderly town in the whole of Uganda., and the last stop on  our road trip, before the long road back to Kampala.




Wednesday, 12 June 2013

Settling back into life in Kiwangala


  - 10th June

I’ve been home for just over 2 weeks, and it feels as though I never left. As though my mad month of travelling never even happened. I think, coming back to Kiwangala from travelling has made it feel even more like home. Everything feels familiar, and it was such a comforting sight when Kiwangala came into sight, across the valley, on the road from Masaka.

Unfortunately, my body realised that now it was home, it didn't have to push through and keep going, as it had done whilst travelling, and I fell into a state of disrepair shortly after arriving. Not before I had the opportunity to make a round of all of our friends, and our lovely family though, who made me feel even more as though I’d returned home. Sunday evening, after a lively church service which almost had me in tears at the joy of the familiarity of everything, and lunch down with the family, my body gave up the gun and the sickness I’d been holding off, took over. It took all of my energy to pull myself out of bed the following morning, to sit on a boda, to take me to the other end of the village, and the sight of Kiwangala health centre. Where I spent the next 4 hours half asleep, sitting in the narrow corridor, waiting, along with around 60 other people, to be seen to by the single doctor. She diagnosed me with malaria, very nonchalantly, and sent me home with a set of pills. Luckily for me, Calum’s family were staying that week, so I had 2 mums to look after me! Justine came up one morning at 7am with Dan and Elinah and toast and hot milk, to check that I was taking my pills and recovering. I was. I had another mum on the end of the phone, rather helpless, wishing she was here to look after me too! After spending the next few days in bed, I felt much better. At the end of the week I phoned Dr. Stockley, the big gun doctor in Kampala, who P.T. are closely linked with. He told me, straight away, I hadn’t had malaria; I was almost disappointed! Apparently 19 in 20 cases diagnosed as malaria in rural clinics in Uganda actually are not. After I told him my symptoms he was even more certain, saying I would have been hallucinating and unable to get out of bed if I’d had 3 fevers with malaria. So, sorry for worrying everyone! Panic over.

Since then, everything has been focused on the start of a new term at Children’s Sure House, and Moses’ radical ideas for change in the school, which has meant the introduction of a whole new timetable. The secondary school now has only 6 students, and has a pretty uncertain future. We continue to teach the unstoppable pair of girls in senior 2, who are a credit to themselves and work so hard, in a difficult situation. Senior 4s are being taught by Moses. And that’s it for the senior section.

Which leaves the primary, where there are nearly 300 students, spread over 9 classes. With a mixture of pressure from us, and Moses’ recent trip to America, where he saw how things could be done differently, the curriculum has suddenly become a hundred times more diverse and exciting for the students, which is also exciting for us! In the new timetable Jenny is teaching drama, Calum sports and art, Holly Music, French, baking and sewing. And I’m teaching Spanish and art, and hopefully going to get the chance to join in with some baking classes! We’re all really fueled up about it, even if it does mean no more 3 day weekends and 7.30 starts most mornings!

Spanish has been great fun; the children are so excited about it and have fun shouting out new Spanish words, in surprisingly good Spanish accents. It’s so rewarding to hear them shouting hola and introducing themselves to me in Spanish out of the lessons. Art is great; Holly and I are working together so, as she teaches new recipes to the students in baking classes, we are creating recipe books to catalogue them all in our art lessons.

I have also started teaching English in the primary school, using the book Funnybones, which is incredibly popular. The children have been so starved of any kind of fun in English lessons, but Moses has specifically said that he wants us to teaching reading and writing. This is so exciting, as previously lessons have consisted solely of grammar and sentence structure, leaving no room for imagination! So, the school suddenly has a new burst of life, Moses is ensuring all teachers go to all their lessons (theoretically, there’s still some work to be done there) and the children are actually getting to do things other than just copying from the board. Leaps and Bounds!

We have a plan to take all of Justine and Moses’ children along with Robinah’s (a teacher and neighbour) four boys, swimming in Masaka on the 29th June, which everyone is already buzzing for! Emma, our friend who lives a few miles away in an orphanage has said she’s going to come with her 8 children too, so it looks as though we’ll be taking over the pool! We can’t wait. Holly has started a very self-disciplined exercise regime, which involves running most evenings, and I’m beginning to get sucked along too, which is good, as Uganda is not being kind to my waist line! So, life in Kiwangala continues. It’s hit us all how numbered our days left here now are, and I think we all feel as though we have to really make the most of the little time we have left in this special place which we’ve all become so attached to.

Just arrived home from a walk with Jingo James and Calum to a tiny coffee processing place in Kiwangala. It’s coffee season and I couldn’t pass up on the opportunity to buy some fresh coffee beans. . It’s so interesting to see the bare roots of where the coffee comes from. All around Kiwangala are plastic sheets laid out with beans in their husks, drying in the sun, then they are taken to one of five little factories in Kiwangala (competition is rife!) where they are laid out again, before being hauled up the most rickety little staircase I’ve walked up in my life to be dropped into the top of the machine where the husks and beans are separated. I now have a little tub of green beans and am going to try to make my own coffee…


Blog about my travels to follow!